What Do I Need?
In order to successfully machine embroider, you obviously need an embroidery machine. It doesn't matter if you have a top of the line $20,000 machine, or a used 4" only hoop that you got off craigslist. ALL embroidery machines need the same supplies.
1. Designs
2. Stabilizer
3. Thread
4. Transfer program
5. Scissors
6. Something to embroider on
7. Needles
8. Bobbins
9. Knowledge
Designs
Designs can be downloaded from websites, or gotten off of CD or embroidery cards. They can range in price from free to hundreds or thousands of dollars. A simple search for 'free embroidery designs' will bring up countless designs. This is a great way to start your embroidery design collection. Even searching for a specific design will usually bring up at least one or two freebies. Many embroidery websites offer daily, weekly or monthly designs for free, or free with purchase. Also, check social media, I am personally a member of 3-4 groups that offer free designs.
Stabilizer
Stabilizer is that white (or black) stuff on the back of any commercially embroidered item. Its use is exactly what its name implies, to stabilize the item being embroidered from stretching or twisting out of shape during stitchout and after unhooping. There are 4 main types of stabilizer and countless varieties within each type. Those four types are:
1. Tear-away: used on items that won't be worn, towels, bags, etc. after finished stitching out your design, you 'tear away' the remainder of the stabilizer. You will most likely NOT be able to get every tiny bit of it out, and that's OK. It will either come out in the wash or remain on the item.
2. Cut-away: used on items that will be worn, clothing, outerwear, hats, etc. (If you wear it, don't tear it!) this type of stabilizer requires carefully cutting away as much as safely possible. If you think you might clip a thread or the embroidered item, leave the stabilizer be! It's better to have some extra stabilizer on the back than to have to redo a whole piece that you may have spent hours on already.
3. Wash-away: this type is made up of a dissolvable material and can have either a plastic or fabric-y feel. It is used in many applications, like topping a high pile material, like terrycloth or minky, or it is used exclusively in my favorite type of embroidery, freestanding lace(FSL).
4. Mesh: mesh is usually used with other mesh-like materials like organza and tulle. But it can also be used in combination with or instead of tear-away or cut-away.
Within these categories, there are different thicknesses (light, medium, and heavyweights), colors (usually white for light fabrics, and black for darks), or with an iron-on capability.
Regardless of what styles of embroidery you choose, you WILL need stabilizer. A good rule of thumb is to use 1 layer of stabilizer per 10,000 stitches in your designs. I've found, except with very dense designs, 1 layer on the bottom, and in the case of high-pile fabrics, one layer on top, is usually plenty.
Thread
This is a biggie. (obviously) If embroidery is like painting, the fabric is your canvas, and the thread is your paint. It comes in 2 main types and many specialty types. The main types are polyester or rayon. Specialties include wool blends, cotton blends, silk, metallics, mylar, and even real gold and silver. Thread comes from 10-20 different companies and in various price points. I recommend starting with the best "I want it all" package you can afford. Most, if not all, companies offer either sets (brights, neons, seasons, etc) or whole collections and can range from 33 cents up to $5-7 per spool. Thread also comes in a variety of sizes, usually from 100yd/m up to 5000yd/m. I've found the best size for me is 5000m of black and white, and 500m of colors.
Depending on your style, the vast majority of your embroidery will require 'bobbin fill'. This is a special thread that you use in your bobbin only. It is lighter weight than the embroidery thread and only comes in white or black (again based on fabric color).
The ONLY time you should use embroidery thread in your bobbin, is if you are doing FSL because your finished items can be seen from both front and back, your bobbin needs to match your top thread. If you see bobbin fill on the top of your project, that is due to another issue, usually tension). You may also need/want to invest in a thread stand. This is a useful tool that can help your thread move along the thread path more easily. They come in single and multiple spool capacities. If you do not have one, you can use a coffee cup to put the spool in. A cup or thread stand should be set up behind your machine by a few inches, in direct line with where the thread starts in the thread path, and NOT in the way of the embroidery carriage arm or hoop.
Transfer Program
The majority of machines come with their own programs or protocols to get your designs from your computer to your machine, whether by cable or thumb drive or in the case of the new top of the line machines coming out, wifi or Bluetooth.
You can choose to also purchase aftermarket programs like MasterWorks, Embrilliance, SewWhat Pro, or Hatch by Wilcom. These all come with free trials, but you may have a limited trial period or an abbreviated choice of what you can do with it. These programs can be VERY pricey but usually offer either monthly payment plans, or the ability to purchase only what you need, like Embrilliance Thumbnailer, or Hatch Essentials.
Scissors
"But I already HAVE scissors". For embroidery, you need embroidery scissors. I recommend 4" curved, or 7-8" double curved. These specialty scissors will help you cut the many tiny jump stitches, or clip threads while your project is still in the hoop. If you get into applique, you may also want to invest in a pair of 'duckbill' or applique scissors. These will help you to trim the applique fabric, without cutting your attachment fabric, on larger pieces. I find my curved embroidery scissors do a better job in the tiny spaces. Again, get the best pair (or pairs) that you can afford. Buy them with coupons at your local big box craft stores, or find them online. Out of the 40+ pairs of scissors I have, I prefer my ginghers (bought with 50-60% off coupons) 4" curved, and duckbills. I also purchased a pair of 7" double curved that I love, but purchased those from a friend online. A small pair of 'thread nips' can also be useful, but are usually not curved, and may be difficult to maneuver if you are trying to clip a thread in the hoop.
Something to Embroider On
Again, kind of obvious, but this can range through a myriad of materials from stabilizer alone (FSL), to fabric, leather, cork, paper, toilet paper (yes people can, and do embroider on rolls of tp), ribbon, burlap, even sports balls, pretty much, if you wonder if you can embroider on it, you probably can, and someone probably already has. So don't think that your embroidery has to stop at t-shirts, towels, and hats, the sky is the limit, and the only thing holding you back is your imagination.
Needles
You will definitely need a LOT of needles. I buy mine in packs of 100. You will also need different types of needles. The most popular sizes are 75/11 and 80/10. There are also different types for different applications, ballpoint for knits, sharps for woven fabrics, leather for leather, denim, and canvas, and metallic for use with metallic or mylar threads. Choose the type of needle for the fabric, except for metallic needles, which are chosen for the thread. Specialty materials (cork, paper, etc) can usually get away with using a sharp. There are now titanium, chrome and kevlar needles available, but honestly, they kind of scare me. I would rather buy a 'lesser' material needle and have IT break than have a 'stronger' material and have my machine break instead.
Bobbins
You will want to get a pack of at least 10-20 bobbins that fit your specific machine. Check your manual to find out what size, or class, your bobbins need to be. There are 2 types, metal,
and plastic. Most, if not all, modern machines use plastic. Some machines can use both. If the manual states that certain types can NOT be used (usually metal) in your machine, DON'T use them. There are reasons why warnings and 'important notes' are in your manual, pay attention to them.
Knowledge
This is where I and other experienced embroiderers come in. Join groups on social media or at local sewing stores, ask questions, then ask more questions. Take classes, usually, your local quilting/embroidery/craft store will have classes, but don't forget places like craftsy, or extension classes at a local college. Rent books at the library, or watch YouTube videos.
I hope this list has given you a good starting base. Happy Embroidering!
In order to successfully machine embroider, you obviously need an embroidery machine. It doesn't matter if you have a top of the line $20,000 machine, or a used 4" only hoop that you got off craigslist. ALL embroidery machines need the same supplies.
1. Designs
2. Stabilizer
3. Thread
4. Transfer program
5. Scissors
6. Something to embroider on
7. Needles
8. Bobbins
9. Knowledge
Designs
Designs can be downloaded from websites, or gotten off of CD or embroidery cards. They can range in price from free to hundreds or thousands of dollars. A simple search for 'free embroidery designs' will bring up countless designs. This is a great way to start your embroidery design collection. Even searching for a specific design will usually bring up at least one or two freebies. Many embroidery websites offer daily, weekly or monthly designs for free, or free with purchase. Also, check social media, I am personally a member of 3-4 groups that offer free designs.
Stabilizer
1. Tear-away: used on items that won't be worn, towels, bags, etc. after finished stitching out your design, you 'tear away' the remainder of the stabilizer. You will most likely NOT be able to get every tiny bit of it out, and that's OK. It will either come out in the wash or remain on the item.
2. Cut-away: used on items that will be worn, clothing, outerwear, hats, etc. (If you wear it, don't tear it!) this type of stabilizer requires carefully cutting away as much as safely possible. If you think you might clip a thread or the embroidered item, leave the stabilizer be! It's better to have some extra stabilizer on the back than to have to redo a whole piece that you may have spent hours on already.
3. Wash-away: this type is made up of a dissolvable material and can have either a plastic or fabric-y feel. It is used in many applications, like topping a high pile material, like terrycloth or minky, or it is used exclusively in my favorite type of embroidery, freestanding lace(FSL).
4. Mesh: mesh is usually used with other mesh-like materials like organza and tulle. But it can also be used in combination with or instead of tear-away or cut-away.
Within these categories, there are different thicknesses (light, medium, and heavyweights), colors (usually white for light fabrics, and black for darks), or with an iron-on capability.
Regardless of what styles of embroidery you choose, you WILL need stabilizer. A good rule of thumb is to use 1 layer of stabilizer per 10,000 stitches in your designs. I've found, except with very dense designs, 1 layer on the bottom, and in the case of high-pile fabrics, one layer on top, is usually plenty.
Thread
This is a biggie. (obviously) If embroidery is like painting, the fabric is your canvas, and the thread is your paint. It comes in 2 main types and many specialty types. The main types are polyester or rayon. Specialties include wool blends, cotton blends, silk, metallics, mylar, and even real gold and silver. Thread comes from 10-20 different companies and in various price points. I recommend starting with the best "I want it all" package you can afford. Most, if not all, companies offer either sets (brights, neons, seasons, etc) or whole collections and can range from 33 cents up to $5-7 per spool. Thread also comes in a variety of sizes, usually from 100yd/m up to 5000yd/m. I've found the best size for me is 5000m of black and white, and 500m of colors.
Depending on your style, the vast majority of your embroidery will require 'bobbin fill'. This is a special thread that you use in your bobbin only. It is lighter weight than the embroidery thread and only comes in white or black (again based on fabric color).
The ONLY time you should use embroidery thread in your bobbin, is if you are doing FSL because your finished items can be seen from both front and back, your bobbin needs to match your top thread. If you see bobbin fill on the top of your project, that is due to another issue, usually tension). You may also need/want to invest in a thread stand. This is a useful tool that can help your thread move along the thread path more easily. They come in single and multiple spool capacities. If you do not have one, you can use a coffee cup to put the spool in. A cup or thread stand should be set up behind your machine by a few inches, in direct line with where the thread starts in the thread path, and NOT in the way of the embroidery carriage arm or hoop.
Transfer Program
The majority of machines come with their own programs or protocols to get your designs from your computer to your machine, whether by cable or thumb drive or in the case of the new top of the line machines coming out, wifi or Bluetooth.
You can choose to also purchase aftermarket programs like MasterWorks, Embrilliance, SewWhat Pro, or Hatch by Wilcom. These all come with free trials, but you may have a limited trial period or an abbreviated choice of what you can do with it. These programs can be VERY pricey but usually offer either monthly payment plans, or the ability to purchase only what you need, like Embrilliance Thumbnailer, or Hatch Essentials.
Scissors
Something to Embroider On
Again, kind of obvious, but this can range through a myriad of materials from stabilizer alone (FSL), to fabric, leather, cork, paper, toilet paper (yes people can, and do embroider on rolls of tp), ribbon, burlap, even sports balls, pretty much, if you wonder if you can embroider on it, you probably can, and someone probably already has. So don't think that your embroidery has to stop at t-shirts, towels, and hats, the sky is the limit, and the only thing holding you back is your imagination.
Needles
You will definitely need a LOT of needles. I buy mine in packs of 100. You will also need different types of needles. The most popular sizes are 75/11 and 80/10. There are also different types for different applications, ballpoint for knits, sharps for woven fabrics, leather for leather, denim, and canvas, and metallic for use with metallic or mylar threads. Choose the type of needle for the fabric, except for metallic needles, which are chosen for the thread. Specialty materials (cork, paper, etc) can usually get away with using a sharp. There are now titanium, chrome and kevlar needles available, but honestly, they kind of scare me. I would rather buy a 'lesser' material needle and have IT break than have a 'stronger' material and have my machine break instead.Bobbins
You will want to get a pack of at least 10-20 bobbins that fit your specific machine. Check your manual to find out what size, or class, your bobbins need to be. There are 2 types, metal,
Knowledge
This is where I and other experienced embroiderers come in. Join groups on social media or at local sewing stores, ask questions, then ask more questions. Take classes, usually, your local quilting/embroidery/craft store will have classes, but don't forget places like craftsy, or extension classes at a local college. Rent books at the library, or watch YouTube videos.
I hope this list has given you a good starting base. Happy Embroidering!
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