What Machine is Right for Me?
Here is another 'simple' question I see from Embroidery Newbies. And then I watch in horror as they are assailed with hundreds of comments only offering a brand name, no model, no other information. So I developed this questionnaire and tips to help you whittle down the gigantic list of brands and models available. Whether this is your first machine, or you are looking to upgrade (or downgrade)
1. What is your TOTAL budget?
This price will be the cap for EVERYTHING you need, including the machine, supplies, programs, classes, and anything else you may need/want.
2. What is your MACHINE budget?
Yes, the latest and greatest machines are AMAZING! But if you only have a $500 machine budget, there is no use looking at (and consequently falling in love with, and pining over) the newest 'do everything' machine that costs many thousands of dollars. Also consider looking at places like facebook marketplace, or craigslist. while you may not get a warranty or specials with you machine this way, you may be able to afford an otherwise 'out of budget' machine that has been used (or if you're lucky, new or barely used, and sitting for a while). With used or 'sitting' machines, I do recommend taking them to a local, reputable repair shop for a tune-up and oiling, before trying it out on your first project.
3. What are your MAIN embroidery/sewing goals?
If you only want to do baby and small items, then you probably don't need anything more than a 4" or 5x7" hoop. If you want to get into large bags, full jacket backs, embroidered quilts, or specialty items like hats or shoes then you need to look at machines that can handle those capabilities. I DO recommend getting something with a 5x7" or larger hoop, in addition to a 4" hoop. The reasoning for this is because the majority of purchasable designs for regular, applique, lace or In The Hoop (ITH) projects usually requires at least a 5x7''. Yes, there are thousands of cute 4" designs, and you can do multiple hoopings to achieve a larger design, but for items like ITH bags, or lace, you cannot do multiple hoopings and MUST do all steps in a single hoop, and single hooping (meaning you can't unhoop the item and reposition it). And, yes, there ARE 4" ITH bag designs, but the designs are obviously more limited to change purse size. Even a lot of keychain designs need more than a 4" hoop because of the tab that may stick out beyond the border of your 4" hoop.
4. How much space do you have?
If you only have a small folding table in a corner of the room that is also your desk for work, it doesn't make sense to get a large, very heavy, industrial machine. Even the small embroidery only machines are heavy AND delicate. The more you move it, the more possibility of injuring yourself or your machine. So having a dedicated space, even if it's small, is crucial. If you have a 10'x20' she-shed in your backyard, you can spacially afford to get a larger machine.
5. Do you need/want a 'combo' or 'embroidery only' machine?
This is again a space issue, but also preference. I prefer having a combination, or 'all-in-one' machine. I can sew, serge (overlock), quilt and embroider all on one machine, I just have to change presser feet or arms for the job. But I also have 'other' sewing machines and sergers so that if I am embroidering on my Destiny, I can still work on other items while it stitches out a design. If you prefer an 'embroidery only' machine, then look for one in your price range, and again, don't forget about a used machine.
6. How much Disney-based designs do you see yourself using?
Kind of a strange question I know, but it DOES make a difference when you look at machines. Some machines, like Brother, have exclusive rights to many 'official' Disney designs. If you are looking to sell these items, (or any item with a trademark design), you MUST be careful of copyright infringement. I know of multiple stories of both Disney and Harley-Davidson suing individuals for using and/or selling items with uncopyrighted designs. If you purchase a machine with designs like these, you still need to take it upon yourself to see if you are able to sell items with these designs, if that is the route you choose to take (most are usually 'for private use only'). This also goes for buying designs off places like Etsy or Facebook, security isn't going to bust you for walking through Disney World with an Etsy-purchased 'mouse ear' design on your shirt, but they will certainly try to shut you down if you try to sell them in bulk, (or possibly at all). This also makes a difference when you look at machines, because you can find 2 of the exact same machine for drastically different prices because one machine has Disney designs loaded on it, and the other one doesn't.
7. Do you have any dealers with in-house service techs in your area?
This is a big one! It is better to find a great tech, especially one who is certified on your specific machine. If you have no one near you, you will most likely have to send your machine off for repairs, and that can get very expensive, and cause delays, and possibly loss of work and or damage to your machine.
I am lucky, the shop where I purchased my machine has one full-time tech, and both owners are also certified to work on my machine.
8. Are you looking to mainly do gifts/items for your children/grands, or are you looking to make full-time money from this endeavor?
If you just want to make occasional gifts for people or maybe do 1-2 craft shows a year, you can do all that on a 'home' model. If you want to open up a kiosk or shop at the local mall, you will want to look at more commercial or industrial machines as these are faster, usually have multiple needles so you don't have to go back and change thread every time, and have larger bobbins for longer work times between bobbin changes.
9. FOr upgrades, do you have a majority of purchased designs that are in a single file format? Or are your designs in multiple file formats?
If you have a lot of single format files, then you will probably want to stick with the same brand or another brand that uses the same file format. If you purchased mostly 'all-format' files this should be a non-issue. (File formats are the extensions at the end of the file name such as .pes, .xxx, .hus, .jef etc)
9. What size hoops do you currently have, wish you had, or think you might use?
This goes back to the design and goals questions. If you have, or want to purchase large designs, it makes no sense to buy a 4" only hoop. If you have a 4" and 6x10" hoop, but wish you had a 5x7" too, look at machines that have the hoops you desire to use most. But also look at the included hoops that you might NOT use. My last machine came with a 4", 6x10" and a 6.25xendless border hoop. I bought it SPECIFICALLY for the border hoop...and never used it. I could have saved myself a couple of hundred dollars by purchasing essentially the same machine, with a few less included designs and one less font (which I also never used), and no endless hoop. If your goals are table runners and tablecloths, then a machine with an endless hoop like that included is a better option for you.
10. Do you want to use a machine-included transfer program or an aftermarket one?
Most machines come with some sort of program to do basic editing and transfer of designs. Some require an additional purchase of either a specific or general design programs. If you want to get into digitizing (making your own designs to stitch out or sell), then the basic software that comes with a machine is probably not going to be enough to get what you want done. There are plenty of excellent programs on the market, however, they can be pretty pricey. Most companies offer a complete suite of their programs or individual specific-action programs (like digitizing, organization, editing, monogram/lettering) for separate prices. Almost all of them offer trials, usually full-program 30-day trials. Some offer only portions of their program for use in the trial. Download a few different ones, try them out, watch videos on how to use them, then decide.
11. What features are 'must haves' for you?
If you don't feel you need automatic thread cutters, don't get a machine with them (although they ARE pretty handy). Same goes for other features, if you plan on doing mostly monogramming and lettering, try to find a machine or program with a lot of fonts and mono designs already included. If you want to do hats, make sure you find a machine that either comes with a hat hoop or can accept an aftermarket hat hoop.
After answering all of these questions for yourself, you will have a MUCH better sense of what you want than just getting deluged with 'Babylock' 'Viking' 'Brother' when you ask 'What's the best machine?' in a social media group. Everyone has an opinion, and they are ALL willing to give it to you.
Answer the first question FIRST. There is no use drooling over the 'latest and greatest' that costs $20,000 if your budget is $500.
Once you have your budget worked out, and an idea of the features you want, then go to dealers in your area and try out some machines in your range. Also, ask about trade-ins and floor models. My destiny was a floor model, and I got her with a bunch of extras for almost half MSRP. And don't forget to look on FB marketplace, craigslist, letgo or even at your local quilt guilds, shops or clubs. Machines in these places may not come with a warranty or free classes, but they may allow you to purchase a better machine that might have been out of your budget otherwise.
Here is another 'simple' question I see from Embroidery Newbies. And then I watch in horror as they are assailed with hundreds of comments only offering a brand name, no model, no other information. So I developed this questionnaire and tips to help you whittle down the gigantic list of brands and models available. Whether this is your first machine, or you are looking to upgrade (or downgrade)
1. What is your TOTAL budget?
This price will be the cap for EVERYTHING you need, including the machine, supplies, programs, classes, and anything else you may need/want.
2. What is your MACHINE budget?
Yes, the latest and greatest machines are AMAZING! But if you only have a $500 machine budget, there is no use looking at (and consequently falling in love with, and pining over) the newest 'do everything' machine that costs many thousands of dollars. Also consider looking at places like facebook marketplace, or craigslist. while you may not get a warranty or specials with you machine this way, you may be able to afford an otherwise 'out of budget' machine that has been used (or if you're lucky, new or barely used, and sitting for a while). With used or 'sitting' machines, I do recommend taking them to a local, reputable repair shop for a tune-up and oiling, before trying it out on your first project.
3. What are your MAIN embroidery/sewing goals?
If you only want to do baby and small items, then you probably don't need anything more than a 4" or 5x7" hoop. If you want to get into large bags, full jacket backs, embroidered quilts, or specialty items like hats or shoes then you need to look at machines that can handle those capabilities. I DO recommend getting something with a 5x7" or larger hoop, in addition to a 4" hoop. The reasoning for this is because the majority of purchasable designs for regular, applique, lace or In The Hoop (ITH) projects usually requires at least a 5x7''. Yes, there are thousands of cute 4" designs, and you can do multiple hoopings to achieve a larger design, but for items like ITH bags, or lace, you cannot do multiple hoopings and MUST do all steps in a single hoop, and single hooping (meaning you can't unhoop the item and reposition it). And, yes, there ARE 4" ITH bag designs, but the designs are obviously more limited to change purse size. Even a lot of keychain designs need more than a 4" hoop because of the tab that may stick out beyond the border of your 4" hoop.
4. How much space do you have?
If you only have a small folding table in a corner of the room that is also your desk for work, it doesn't make sense to get a large, very heavy, industrial machine. Even the small embroidery only machines are heavy AND delicate. The more you move it, the more possibility of injuring yourself or your machine. So having a dedicated space, even if it's small, is crucial. If you have a 10'x20' she-shed in your backyard, you can spacially afford to get a larger machine.
5. Do you need/want a 'combo' or 'embroidery only' machine?
This is again a space issue, but also preference. I prefer having a combination, or 'all-in-one' machine. I can sew, serge (overlock), quilt and embroider all on one machine, I just have to change presser feet or arms for the job. But I also have 'other' sewing machines and sergers so that if I am embroidering on my Destiny, I can still work on other items while it stitches out a design. If you prefer an 'embroidery only' machine, then look for one in your price range, and again, don't forget about a used machine.
6. How much Disney-based designs do you see yourself using?
Kind of a strange question I know, but it DOES make a difference when you look at machines. Some machines, like Brother, have exclusive rights to many 'official' Disney designs. If you are looking to sell these items, (or any item with a trademark design), you MUST be careful of copyright infringement. I know of multiple stories of both Disney and Harley-Davidson suing individuals for using and/or selling items with uncopyrighted designs. If you purchase a machine with designs like these, you still need to take it upon yourself to see if you are able to sell items with these designs, if that is the route you choose to take (most are usually 'for private use only'). This also goes for buying designs off places like Etsy or Facebook, security isn't going to bust you for walking through Disney World with an Etsy-purchased 'mouse ear' design on your shirt, but they will certainly try to shut you down if you try to sell them in bulk, (or possibly at all). This also makes a difference when you look at machines, because you can find 2 of the exact same machine for drastically different prices because one machine has Disney designs loaded on it, and the other one doesn't.
7. Do you have any dealers with in-house service techs in your area?
This is a big one! It is better to find a great tech, especially one who is certified on your specific machine. If you have no one near you, you will most likely have to send your machine off for repairs, and that can get very expensive, and cause delays, and possibly loss of work and or damage to your machine.
I am lucky, the shop where I purchased my machine has one full-time tech, and both owners are also certified to work on my machine.
8. Are you looking to mainly do gifts/items for your children/grands, or are you looking to make full-time money from this endeavor?
If you just want to make occasional gifts for people or maybe do 1-2 craft shows a year, you can do all that on a 'home' model. If you want to open up a kiosk or shop at the local mall, you will want to look at more commercial or industrial machines as these are faster, usually have multiple needles so you don't have to go back and change thread every time, and have larger bobbins for longer work times between bobbin changes.
9. FOr upgrades, do you have a majority of purchased designs that are in a single file format? Or are your designs in multiple file formats?
If you have a lot of single format files, then you will probably want to stick with the same brand or another brand that uses the same file format. If you purchased mostly 'all-format' files this should be a non-issue. (File formats are the extensions at the end of the file name such as .pes, .xxx, .hus, .jef etc)
9. What size hoops do you currently have, wish you had, or think you might use?
This goes back to the design and goals questions. If you have, or want to purchase large designs, it makes no sense to buy a 4" only hoop. If you have a 4" and 6x10" hoop, but wish you had a 5x7" too, look at machines that have the hoops you desire to use most. But also look at the included hoops that you might NOT use. My last machine came with a 4", 6x10" and a 6.25xendless border hoop. I bought it SPECIFICALLY for the border hoop...and never used it. I could have saved myself a couple of hundred dollars by purchasing essentially the same machine, with a few less included designs and one less font (which I also never used), and no endless hoop. If your goals are table runners and tablecloths, then a machine with an endless hoop like that included is a better option for you.
10. Do you want to use a machine-included transfer program or an aftermarket one?
Most machines come with some sort of program to do basic editing and transfer of designs. Some require an additional purchase of either a specific or general design programs. If you want to get into digitizing (making your own designs to stitch out or sell), then the basic software that comes with a machine is probably not going to be enough to get what you want done. There are plenty of excellent programs on the market, however, they can be pretty pricey. Most companies offer a complete suite of their programs or individual specific-action programs (like digitizing, organization, editing, monogram/lettering) for separate prices. Almost all of them offer trials, usually full-program 30-day trials. Some offer only portions of their program for use in the trial. Download a few different ones, try them out, watch videos on how to use them, then decide.
11. What features are 'must haves' for you?
If you don't feel you need automatic thread cutters, don't get a machine with them (although they ARE pretty handy). Same goes for other features, if you plan on doing mostly monogramming and lettering, try to find a machine or program with a lot of fonts and mono designs already included. If you want to do hats, make sure you find a machine that either comes with a hat hoop or can accept an aftermarket hat hoop.
After answering all of these questions for yourself, you will have a MUCH better sense of what you want than just getting deluged with 'Babylock' 'Viking' 'Brother' when you ask 'What's the best machine?' in a social media group. Everyone has an opinion, and they are ALL willing to give it to you.
Answer the first question FIRST. There is no use drooling over the 'latest and greatest' that costs $20,000 if your budget is $500.
Once you have your budget worked out, and an idea of the features you want, then go to dealers in your area and try out some machines in your range. Also, ask about trade-ins and floor models. My destiny was a floor model, and I got her with a bunch of extras for almost half MSRP. And don't forget to look on FB marketplace, craigslist, letgo or even at your local quilt guilds, shops or clubs. Machines in these places may not come with a warranty or free classes, but they may allow you to purchase a better machine that might have been out of your budget otherwise.
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